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What Deck Resurfacing Replaces and What Stays
Resurfacing reuses the structure of the deck: the footings, posts, beams, joists, ledger and usually the stair stringers. Everything that forms the surface and the finished edges is new. A typical scope separates the two like this:
- Replaced
- deck boards, fascia over the rim joists and beams, stair treads and riser boards, and any framing member that fails the tests below
- Kept
- footings, posts, beams, joists, ledger and stringers that are sound, level and spaced for the new boards
- Decided separately
- the railing, which is fastened to the frame and can be kept or replaced at the same time
The old boards always come off. Taking them up is the only way to see the tops of the joists, the hangers and the ledger, which are the parts that decide whether the frame can be kept. Once they are exposed, it's usually clear whether the job remains a resurface or needs to become a deck repair for isolated damage or a full replacement when the structure itself has failed. Boards that are sound but faded or gray are a refinishing job, covered on our wood deck page.
How We Test a Kansas City Deck Frame for Reuse
- Wood condition
- soft spots, broken pieces, splits, cracks or moisture damage in joists, beams and posts
- Hardware
- hangers, connectors and fasteners that are tight and free of corrosion
- Attachment
- a frame securely fastened to the house or to a properly supported post and beam system, since TimberTech says not to build on a floating substructure
- The ledger
- sitting flush against the house and secured with the appropriate fasteners
The tops of the joists get the closest look. Water that runs through the gaps between boards lands on them, and every old fastener hole is a path into the wood. Treated lumber can decay from the inside around those holes while the sides of the joist still look sound, so we probe the tops rather than judging the frame by its appearance from below.
The results usually fall into one of two groups. A few soft joists or a corroded hanger can be corrected within the resurface by replacing the member, fastening a new joist alongside the damaged one, or swapping the hardware. Decay spread across many joists, a ledger that isn't properly attached, or posts and footings that have moved put the job outside resurfacing, because new boards would sit on a structure that is still failing.
Leveling the Joists Before New Decking Goes On
A frame can be sound and still not be ready for new decking. Joists twist, crown and settle as they age, and new boards follow the tops of the joists closely. A joist that sits higher or lower than its neighbors shows through the new surface as a hump or a dip, and it can cause boards to rock or fasteners to sit unevenly.
Both major composite manufacturers address this directly. TimberTech calls for checking joist tops with a tight string line to find high and low joists, and Trex's resurfacing steps call for joists that are level and even with each other, shimming or shaving them where they aren't. We run lines across the frame once the boards are off, plane down joists that crown above the line, shim those that sit low, and fasten a straight member alongside any joist that is too far out to correct.
Blocking is part of the same step. Solid blocking between joists keeps them from rolling and twisting, and TimberTech recommends rows of blocking no more than 4 to 6 feet apart. Older frames sometimes have little or none in the field of the deck, so it's added where it's missing before the new decking is installed.
Joist Spacing for New Deck Boards in Kansas City
Joist spacing is where many older wood decks fall short when the owner wants composite. Trex says joists should generally be spaced no more than 16 inches on center for standard installations, and that 12 inches is required when boards run diagonally across the joists. TimberTech says spacing should never exceed 16 inches on center for standard residential boards, sets 12 inches for diagonal layouts, and recommends 12 inches where a stiffer feel is wanted. Bounce underfoot is a frequent complaint about composite on older frames, and that flex is what the spacing limits control.
There are exceptions. TimberTech allows up to 24 inches on center for its MAX boards, so the spacing test depends on the specific product chosen rather than on composite as a category. Diagonal layouts, borders around the edge and breaker boards across the middle all change where board ends land, which usually means extra joists or blocking under those seams.
Locally, the Johnson County residential deck guideline notes that composite decking run perpendicular to the joists typically requires 16-inch spacing, and Overland Park's deck guidelines require plastic composite decking to be labeled to the ASTM D7032 standard. Older wood decks were sometimes framed at 24 inches on center. On those frames, Trex describes adding one new joist between each pair of existing joists as a simple fix, which brings the frame to 12 inches on center. The added joists need the same bearing and hangers as the originals.
Railings, Stairs and the House Connection on a Resurfaced Deck
Railing posts are fastened to the frame, so the railing decision is made before the new boards are cut. Trex's resurfacing steps remove the old railing with the decking and attach new pressure-treated structural rail posts to the framing as code requires. Where an existing railing is kept, its posts have to be solid at their connection to the frame, because the new decking is fitted around them. Guard heights and post connections are covered on our railing installation page.
Stairs get new treads in the same material as the deck, and the stringers under them have to suit that material. Trex notes that stair stringers should match the tread manufacturer's specifications, which are usually 12 inches on center or less. A stair with too few stringers, or stringers decaying at the bottom where they meet the ground, is rebuilt as part of the job. Our deck stairs page explains stair construction.
The ledger is checked for a different reason. Resurfacing is the one time the top of the ledger and its flashing are fully exposed without taking the deck down, so any missing or failed flashing is visible. If the ledger is solid and properly fastened, the flashing can be corrected before the new boards cover it again. If it isn't, the deck needs the structural work described on the replacement page.
What Drives the Cost of Deck Resurfacing in Kansas City
Resurfacing costs less than replacement because the footings and most of the framing stay in place. How much less depends on what the frame needs and what goes on top of it. The main cost factors are:
- Deck size and shape
- more surface, corners and angles mean more boards and more cutting
- Decking material
- pressure-treated wood, cedar and composite lines differ widely in price
- Frame corrections
- added joists, replaced or reinforced members, blocking and new hardware
- Board layout
- diagonal runs need 12-inch spacing, and borders and breaker boards add framing and labor
- Stairs and fascia
- each stair run and the length of exposed rim and beam add material
- Railing scope
- keeping the existing railing, replacing it, or changing to a different system
Frame corrections are the factor that can't be fully known until the old boards are off, which is why the frame tests come first. A frame that passes them keeps the project a resurface. One that needs more work than it's worth becomes a replacement before any new decking is installed.
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Deck Resurfacing Questions
Do I need a permit to resurface my deck?
It depends on the city and how much framing is changed. Overland Park's deck guidelines state that repairs of the deck walking surface, guardrails or handrails don't require a permit, while constructing or replacing a deck does. Kansas City, Missouri's code lets ordinary repairs proceed without a permit but excludes the removal or cutting of structural beams or load-bearing supports. Lawrence's 2017 residential deck guide requires a permit to alter or replace a deck. Requirements in other cities are covered on our service area pages.
Can new boards be installed over the old decking?
No. TimberTech gives three reasons not to: water gets trapped between the layers and rots the old boards, the combined weight may be more than the frame was built to carry, and the extra layer raises the deck by about an inch, creating a trip hazard at the door. Removing the old boards keeps the surface at roughly its original height. New boards of a different thickness than the old ones change the step at the door by that difference, so board thickness is settled during planning.
Should old joists be protected before the new decking goes on?
Covering the tops of reused joists with joist tape is a common practice when redecking. The tape sheds water off the joist tops and seals around the fasteners that go through it, which is where reused lumber is most exposed. Paint and coatings are a different matter, because they can trap moisture in the wood. Tape protects the joist tops, but it can't fix wood that is already decayed, so it goes on only after a joist passes the condition tests.